Time for BIG prints – testing the Gigapan
Time for BIG prints – GigaPan Epic Pro testing, using longer lenses
Things to consider when using longer focal length lenses with a GigaPan
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More testing of our GigaPan Epic Pro
I’ve been out with the GigaPan head again, looking for ways to use it for large prints.
The black and white shot is one of the squares on New Walk in Leicester, dating from the 1860’s
The GigaPan is an interesting device for taking high resolution shots and in many ways matches some of the considerations you’d consider for Large Format photography (see some of my previous GigaPan notes – First look and Out at night)
I should point out that we’ve got it for making printable images, although we can supply Web Panoramic type shots if needed.
The small image is a 100% crop from the original colour image.
The stitched colour image was converted to B&W using both the normal PS B&W conversion adjustment (for the sky) and Nik Silver Efex 2 for the rest of the image.
Both conversions were created as layers over the colour original, with the sky ‘painted in’ via a mask. Nik Silver Efex 2 may be great for many images, but I do find that even with control points, some of the the local contrast enhancement adjustments can spill into broad halos with a blue sky and the fine detail of the winter trees. By all means make use of features such as you find in Silver Efex, but always beware of overdoing things.
Many of my recent high resolution shots have been taken with the Canon 1Ds3 and TS-E90mm lens (no shift or tilt used), where I’ve had to move to smaller apertures than I’d normally like (f13 instead of f/8) so as to increase depth of field.
At full resolution, you can see that the statue is slightly less sharp than the background, but you’d really need a huge print to notice.
Indeed, a masked application of a bit of smart sharpening to parts of the statue (~2 pixel radius) would bring back local contrast and show the statue almost as sharp – in a print – as the background.
That lack of sharpness if you have items at different distances is always there – you just don’t see it in a 20MP image as opposed to a 500MP (equiv) image. Of course I could reshoot the image and do some focus stacking, but I suspect I’d need to do it manually, since most focus stacking software might balk at multiple 1.5GB layers…
I’m looking at other software for stitching too, since geometry restrictions, and in particular the limit of 8 bit working make the GigaPan software less than ideal for print work.
The 8 bit limitation was one reason for the multiple conversions when producing a B&W image. 8 bit colour source images are much more likely to show banding in monochrome, particularly when darkening the blue sky, as I did for this example.
I’ve not worked on this image to alter or ‘fix’ much, but for big prints I do take quite a while getting rid of cigarette ends, litter and other items that draw your attention far more than they would in real life.
More testing to come…
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