The RAW digital image formatWhy you should consider using your camera's raw format
Topics (on this page) This article was first written in 2004, and reviewing it in 2009 I found no reason to change any of the details of what I said. Rather than change it, I've added one or two notes that show new developments. Latest articles: Nik Viveza V2 review of versatile image editing plugin | Olmec photo papers Gloss/satin/matt | Epson Stylus Photo R2880 review | EOS 7D articles/notes | Why are my prints too dark? Think of your camera's RAW files as undeveloped film - waiting for you to decide how to process it. Think of JPEGs from your camera as prints you've got back from the corner store - it's all been done for you.
Raw format - what is it, and why?Higher quality digital cameras often have a raw image format available in addition to the normal JPEG and TIFF. Keith has often had people come along to his courses who have found the extra complexity involved in using raw images off-putting. In general, Keith -only- uses raw format on his digital cameras. The conversion software discussed here is mostly Adobe Camera Raw which is part of Photoshop. There are links to other software packages as well. What is the Raw formatDigital camera image sensors create an image from literally millions of tiny light sensing areas on a silicon chip. There are two main types (CCD and CMOS) but all you really need to know is that the image is built up from individual pixels. (CCD/CMOS comparisons, and a useful article on sensor designs) Each light sensor is receptive to a broad range of colours and has a minute coloured filter in front of it. There are usually three different colours (red, green and blue). Since we see green best the filters are in a particular pattern (one called a Bayer pattern is common) with more 'green' pixels
The sensor can provide data at 12 to 14 bits per pixel (4096 to 16,384 levels of intensity) This is reduced to 8 bits per colour in a JPEG file (24 bits total, 8 per colour R,G and B) The complete unreduced data is stored in a raw format file.
The camera has a lot of other information available when a picture is taken. Along with the date and time it records shutter speed, aperture and its estimate of the white balance setting and other pertinent data. This is recorded with any picture.
These are carried out once, and the result is what you see when you open the file in a picture editor program. With a raw format file these calculations are not done and all of the original data is saved to the raw file. Some of the picture data (EXIF data) for the picture of Old John below. How do you use raw filesCamera manufacturers will provide special software to read and convert raw files. This is in effect using your computer to do the calculations that the camera would have done if you'd saved in JPEG. Things such as sharpening, colour settings and contrast all take place during the conversion. Sadly, most camera manufacturers are much better (it is hoped) at making cameras than writing software for you to use. This is where specialist conversion programs and plugins for popular image editing programs come in. The examples below are using Photoshop CS to do a conversion of an Olympus E20 raw file. The picture is the same one used in the converting colour to black and white article elsewhere on the site. There is a collection of info on other raw conversion programs at the end of this article.
Old John, Bradgate Park, Leicester With Photoshop CS you will get the RAW import dialogue if you open up a raw image from one of the Notice the ORF suffix to the file name, signifying an Olympus raw file. The picture opens up in a preview window with lots of settings. This is not a tutorial on the CS raw import feature, so I'll just point out a few of the things you can do when importing. We also use DxO Optics Pro for processing some of our RAW files. There are several detailed reviews of DxO on the site which go into more detail. ResizingThe native resolution of the camera here gives a 2572x1920 pixel image.
It's quite possible to do the resizing at this point, and a few years ago, I'd have always carried it out here. Photoshop now has improved sharpening algorithms that can give better results. I've written a separate article on Resampling of raw camera files with some examples and details of my current workflow - As I say there, don't be afraid to change your workflow if a better way comes along.
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February 2009 -- I've reprocessed some of my Canon 1Ds raw files from 2004 for new prints. Some were noticeably better than before, making the difference between what would make a good 27"x17" or not. Image processing software is getting more and more powerful so I'm really glad I have all my many thousands of images in their original raw format. |
Raw files are essentially 'digital negatives', or perhaps more accurately 'digital exposed but undeveloped film'.
You get to carry out much of the work that the camera would do, on your own computer.
You can decide how you want the image to look.
If new software comes out with revolutionary new capabilities, you can go back and do a new conversion (see Keith's review of DxO Optics Pro for an example of this).
The added dynamic range (16 bit files) gives you much more flexability in subsequent editing of images (particularly in bringing out detail in shadows)
Sure, the files are bigger, but disk and card costs are getting cheaper by the minute.
(11/04) Just about every manufacturer uses their own internal format for raw files. This may well cause problems in the future in reading 'old' files. I happily endorse Adobe's efforts to introduce an open format for raw files and hope that manufacturers can look beyond some of their perceived short term advantages for the benefit of us all.
(12/06) More and more cameras are providing raw support. Since writing this article I've not once shot jpeg images with my Canon 1Ds
With good conversion software I leave my cameras set at raw most of the time.
However I should recount a photo job (in 2004) where I had 500 items of men's clothing to shoot for a trade catalogue. The images were going to be cut out from the background and printed at 30-40mm high.
The lighting was consistent and full colour accuracy was not required. 8 bit JPEG files were more than good enough for the client's needs - and took up far less space.
That was then - now I'd use raw and do a bulk conversion with Photoshop :-)
There is often debate about the merits of RAW shooting, and I've heard some utter nonsense on both sides.
The following quote points out two differing views and is from Farzal Majid's article on the Nikon D70 raw format (NEF)
I guess my own preference tends to the second for my landscape work ;-)
For some types of work you might find that the speed and ease of post processing trumps any extra control over raw file conversion, however I don't do sports or press photography.
Oct 2005 - I've written an article about the technical image processing and resizing issues that I came across when producing 29 prints (up to 78"x43") for a large exhibition of my work. One more reason I'm glad I have the original RAW files to go back to if need be.
Some software to get you started...
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